Saturday, January 31, 2009

the blue mountains were lovely

we've fallen a bit behind... sorry 'bout that. on the 28th of january we left sydney and caught a train to katoomba in the blue mountains just west of sydney. we were really happy to find that the train ticket only cost $12.20 for a 2 hour ride. this was in comparison to the $14.80 we paid to get from the airport to the city... about a 7 minute ride. we were pretty impressed with the train service as a whole. trains were frequent, on time, clean, and all on electric lines even to a town as small as katoomba.

on arrival we were also really happy with the yha. we keep saying that, but this one was especially good. it was originally built as a guesthouse and was "the place to be" in its heyday. it still had all the old art deco style in the ballroom and grand dining room. the kitchen was big and cleaner than most. there was a koi pond and fountain on the balcony. we could go on...

the impressive thing about the blue mountains is the sheer vastness of them. cliffs, and deep valleys covered in eucalyptus trees for as far as the eye can see. we did some hiking on well traveled trails and saw our first big spiders. they weren't just 'wussy girl big.' they were big enough to eat your house cat if they wanted to..... or at least a small bird. yeah, big. and hairy. anna almost touched one by accident and it took a while to calm her down after that.

the next day we did some of the touristy stuff in the area.... went to scenic world and took the world's steepest passenger railway. it used to be a line used only to transport coal out of the mine. it has an incline of 52 degrees. it was kind of like riding a roller coaster in slow motion. once we got to the bottom we did some more hiking around on the valley floor. then took the gondola back to the top. yep, we love ourselves some gondola rides.

before leaving on the 30th we woke up at sunrise and walked back to the lookout point and watched the sun rise. the valleys were filled with fog and from above it just looked like a few peaks and plateaus sticking up out of a sea of clouds. it was a good way to start the day.

we took the train back to sydney and then went straight to the airport to catch our flight to brisbane. we were pretty happy to be boarding a plane for $79 rather than spending the next 17 hours on a bus or train. the flight was good... security everywhere outside the u.s. is a breeze. they have the same rule about liquids but they laughed at us when we asked if we should take our shoes off. they also never actually checked our i.d.s at all. we still felt safe. also, not one of our flights has been delayed or cancelled since we've left america. (knock on wood)

brisbane has been nice. yesterday we did the river walk loop and went to the gallery of modern art and the brisbane art museum. both were free. way to go australia! the river walk also included a man-made beach, a market, and some cafes and malls. we're impressed with how family friendly everything seems to be. maybe we're just seeing people on vacation but we've noticed how whole families seem to spend a lot of time together... and like it.

last night, being a saturday, we thought we'd go out on the town, so to speak. we put on our pretty new dresses and went in the direction that seemed the most fun. we found a street of bars that were actually filled with aussies rather than backpackers. in our first bar we met quite the pair. mark and brian were maybe their names. mid 40's, australian, and really really drunk. one told us a story about how he'd gone from vancouver through seattle on his way to barbados and the nurse he met on the bus who was sure immunizations were a government conspiracy.... three times. the other told us about how he spent australia day. he put on a green toga and got really smashed. smashed enough not to realize when the green toga fell off. they were great for a laugh but we decided we needed a bathroom break and escaped through the back door. sorry mark and brian. we went to a couple other places and chatted with a few more aussies and a few irish lads and then turned in.

today is a bit of a dithering day as we call it. we slept in and are now trying to figure out our next steps. we were planning to head north tomorrow to get some quality beach time. turns out there's a tropical cyclone named ellie that has some other ideas for us. we had made reservations at the magnetic island yha for the 3rd-8th. the whole island is closed as the cyclone is supposed to hit it pretty directly tonight sometime. we'll see how that goes. maybe holding koalas on a tropical island is not in the cards for us. we still have high hopes though. we're thinking we'll stay around brisbane and try to find a beach where it won't be raining. we're almost a month into our trip and we've yet to put on our bathing suits or feel sand between our toes. we're getting a bit itchy to get sun burnt again. tomorrow is our day. it may just not be where we had planned on.

cheers.

Monday, January 26, 2009

aussie, aussie, aussie! oy, oy, oy!

today is our third full day in sydney and despite our initial skepticism, we really like it here. the temp made it to 105 our first day but we had a lovely time inside at the aquarium and wandering around darling harbor. that evening a thunderstorm came through and cooled things off quite a bit. the last couple days have been upper 70s and great.

we spent sunday walking around town, visiting the rocks and the market there, perusing the modern art museum and aboriginal art galleries. we got up to the sydney harbor and took lots of photos of the harbor bridge and the opera house. we may have also snuck inside the opera house to pee.... other tourists told us the toilets were an "experience." and they were right. we would have taken pictures but it must have been intermission in one of the shows 'cause the bathrooms were a bit crowded. we tried to get tickets to a show but everything was sold out. guess we should have planned some things ahead.

sunday evening we met up with an old high school friend who is living here. it really is a small world. it was great to see her and she gave us lot of great tips about sydney and the rest of the country. thanks angie!

yesterday was australia day. the 26th of january is not their actual independence day but they celebrate the day captain cook planted a flag here. aussies party pretty hard on a normal day but on national holidays it's taken to another level. us little americans didn't even try to keep up. our livers are thanking us today. we spent the day at darling harbor with most of the population of sydney. unfortunately it started raining in the afternoon and didn't stop. we saw the boat parade from the comfort of a harbor side cafe while we were being consoled by fish and chips and beer. on the cab ride home our comedian cabbie told us how great obama is and how "mr. hillary" should help him out. we liked him. his english was a little hard to understand though.

today we were going to head to bondi beach but it's still raining. maybe we'll do some laundry and hope that it gets sunny this afternoon. tomorrow we're heading west of the city to the blue mountains for a couple days. anna has gotten really excited about hiking. she really is a changed woman. i'm doing my best to keep up.

Friday, January 23, 2009

so long new zealand. we'll miss you...

our time in new zealand has come to an end. we're a bit sad but excited for all the fun places to come. our last couple days here have been good ones. our day in greymouth was fairly quiet and uneventful but nice. we took the tranz alpine train across the southern alps back to christchurch. it was nice to be back in a familiar city for a bit. and we got to revisit our favorite hostel thus far... stonehurst. we still love it there. we had a good day in christchurch revisiting our favorite coffee shop and buying souvenirs. these are some of the notable things about new zealand that we've not yet mentioned in other posts:


-new zealand has lots and lots of crazy potato chip flavors. things we have tried include lamb and mint (bad), honey soy chicken (less bad), and cucumber and tzatziki (quite good).
-there are 6 possums for every kiwi (human) on these islands. they're apparently quite the pest thus the possum fur souvenirs.
- the roads all over the country are really well maintained. much better than roads in the u.s. but even on fairly high traffic highways most of the bridges are only one lane wide. there are traffic signs posting which direction gets the right of way but it got a bit dicey a couple times with people who apparently were unaware of the rules.
- the people here are amazingly friendly and helpful... even to tourists.... however, they are really aggressive drivers and pedestrians do not necessarily have the right of way.
-anna is now a lover of hiking. new zealand has changed her life forever.
- trees here mature four times faster than they do in the u.s. a pine tree here reaches maturity in 20-25 years. in the u.s. it takes 80. we have no idea how this happens but it is apparently quite good for the forestry industry.
- n.z. loves american music... especially ben harper. we have heard 'sexual healing' more times than we can count.
- we have finally gotten used to looking to the right before we start across the street. the idea of actually driving on the 'wrong' side of the road still baffles us a bit.
- as much as we've missed being in the u.s. for the inauguration, it's been good to experience the rest of the world's excitment. everywhere we've gone the last couple days people have talked to us about it. they're just as excited about obama as we are!

so that's about it. we really enjoyed our time in n.z. and both agree that we would love to come back again.

this morning we caught an early flight to sydney. it's seeming big and busy so far in comparison to the sleepy towns we've been in. also it's hot. 102 degrees today. no more jackets for cool nights for us!

oh, and i almost forgot. we may have gotten tattoos before we left n.z. yeah, we did. (note to dean, bek, sandy and stan: don't worry. we got them at a place that did not give us any type of blood born pathogen. they are respectable and in respectable places. just remember, we're adults now and you love us.) :)

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

our friends fox and franz

so the days have gotten a bit confusing... it was maybe 5 days ago-ish that we left queenstown and headed to the "wild" west coast of the island. our first stop was the tiny town of fox glacier. our hostel was a nice step up from bungi backpackers... including such amenities as a bedside table, sinks with the toilets, and sheet that didn't make us itch inexplicably. we were happy. we spent an afternoon getting settled in and exploring the one street town. the next day we booked a half day glacier trek. they outfitted us with boots, cramp-ons, rain coats, and pokey walking sticks for the ice (regina was particularly fond of these, she may start carrying a big stick with her all the time). we started off hiking up the valley wall up ~650 steps so that we could reach a stable area of the glacier. the terminal face, as the front is called, is quite dangerous. during our hike we heard/saw two really big pieces of ice fall off and two australian tourists were crushed a couple weeks ago when they ignored signs and went past the barriers. we were good tourists and stuck with our guides. they taught us lots of interesting stuff about glaciers, like....

-the glaciers on the west coast of new zealand are some of the only glaciers in the world that are advancing rather than retreating. (we could explain why this is but it would take a while... and we want to go get ice cream)
-fox glacier is moving at a rate of up to 8 meters in 20 days. this is apparently quite impressive for a glacier. it sounded like a lot to us too.

it was really pretty cool being on the ice. our guides had to chip steps into the ice to make steps for us... something they have to do every day because of melt. they let us carry the pick axes too... made us feel like arctic explorers or something. and we have some cool photos to prove it. we're still working on those photos by the way. some may be up without captions today.

after fox we headed about 35 kilometers up the coast to franz josef glacier. a slightly bigger town... this one had at lease 4 side roads off the one main road. however the address where we were to catch our bus upon leaving was listed as "bus stop, main road." quite helpful, but we found it.

in franz we stayed at a yha (youth hostel accommodation) which really turned out to be lovely. we met some nice people who gave us lots of tips on australia... seems as though everyone else started there and then came to n.z. we decided not to pay for another glacier trek and thought we'd just do a bit of tramping on our own. we found a map and got a recommendation of a trail from the kid at the reception desk. and then headed out into the rain forest. the trail was well maintained and marked... at least for most of the way. sometimes we were just wandering through a river bed, scrambling over rocks till we saw the next orange triangle. we got to see some frolicking red deer and some pretty scenery. and then we got to a really big glacier. we didn't venture too close... kinda figured you've seen one glacier, you've seen 'em all, right? and we were kinda tired. so we hitched back to town with a 39 year old american trust fund baby. apparently if your grandfather invents corn syrup, you don't ever have to work. must be nice...

this morning we had been planning on waking up at 5:30 to watch the inauguration but 5:30 came awfully early. we caught our bus on the bus stop, main road, to greymouth. tomorrow we'll take the alpine train back to christchurch, our favorite city so far. and then it will be off to sydney. hooray!

here's the link for the photos... http://groups.msn.com/2girlsandnewzealand/shoebox.msnw?Page=1
our apologies if it doesn't work or if the photos get repetitive etc. we'll try to get them labeled sometime soon.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

queenstown has been redeemed...

we're happy to say that since our last post we're feeling much better about queenstown. it's still a bit of a tourist trap but we've had quite a bit of fun, and to tell the truth, it is really beautiful.



last night we took the gondola up to the lookout on bob's peak. it was really very pretty. the remarkables (mountain range behind the city) are quite aptly named. once at the top we took another ski lift to the luge run, donned our helmets (anna couldn't quite find one large enough, but it was close enough), and took our turn at the luge. it was fun. not quite as death-defying as we'd like to be able to tell you it was, but it was a good time. it was so fun we did it again.... this time on the advanced course. (yeah, we're dangerous like that).



today we took a bus to milford sound and then boarded a boat for a "nature cruise." despite only seeing several seals and one dolphin (the penguins were in hiding) and being rained on all day it was easily the most spectacular day of the trip so far. we've been trying to think of a more beautiful place in the world and we haven't come up with anything yet. the pictures we took don't do it justice and i'm not sure i can find suitable words either. although we were a little soggy, the bonus of the rain was that it created hundreds of waterfalls that cascaded down the sheer 3000 foot cliffs into the dark water. it's amazing what ice and water can do to rock given millions of years. the woman behind us (picture a 50-something, overweight american, who's been smoking for 40 years) was pretty orgasmic with each sight. we'd come around a bend in the road and see yet another waterfall and each time she'd exclaim "oh my god!" loudly to herself. once we got to the valley of 1000 waterfalls it was a little like the movie, when harry met sally. you get the idea. once we got to the boat we avoided her for a while.



we've yet to figure out how to actually upload our photos. we're working on it. we promise. in the meantime you can google milford sound. it'll be worth it.



tomorrow we're on to fox glacier for a couple days and then to franz joseph glacier. should be lots more prettiness.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

yesterday was a sad day...

yesterday we took a bus from christchurch to queenstown. including stops it was about an 8 hour trip but we got to ride through some beautiful countryside. parts of n.z. look quite a bit like colorado or even indiana but most of it is much prettier. the southern alps are quite impressive.

we arrived in the center of town and were happy to find the hostel we had booked to be not too far away. unfortunately after walking inside we got our first taste of what shady hostels can actually be like. i should say that our hostel in christchurch may have spoiled us a bit. there was a full room of very private, clean showers. there were safety codes to get into the building. our room had a fridge, tv, and a safe. there was even a happy hour. it was hostel heaven. bungy backpackers is a bit different. shady is a good word for it. we got to break out our sleep sacks last night. the bathrooms have a toilet but no sink. for those of you that know us well, this presents a problem since both of us are pretty big sticklers for good bathroom hygiene. i also learned a very helpful trait about anna.... she's not afraid to kill bugs with her bare hands. she's gonna be a good one to have around.

despite the disappointing hostel, we were bound and determined to make the best of it and have a great time. i mean, all hostels can't be that nice, right? and we should just be happy to have a roof over our head. and after all, the zorbing is here and that will be so much fun we'll forget about how mangy our hostel may be. one problem.... turns out there is no zorbing in queenstown. the place that was touted to be the "adventure sport capital of the world" doesn't actually have zorbing (even though i'm positive i saw websites and travel books listing it as an activity readily available here). that kinda took the wind out of our sails for a bit. luckily new zealand has some really good beer. and beer does do a good job of cheering us up.

today we slept in. and have found a new game plan.... another gondola ride up to a lovely lookout point and either a fancy dinner at the top or a luge ride down the mountain. then tomorrow we're headed to milford sound for a nature cruise. hopefully we'll see seals, dolphins, and penguins as well as some lovely scenery.

and hopefully we won't get bed bugs in the next two nights.

Monday, January 12, 2009

we made it!

after 25 hours and 4 flights we're in new zealand. today is our second full day here and so far it's been absolutely delightful! we heart kiwis (as in the people, not the fruit or the bird although those seem nice as well). yesterday we shopped, ate, toured cathedrals, meandered about the city, and were amazed at the uses these people find for possum fur. seriously.... sweaters, gloves, nipple warmers, you name it. then in the evening we took a gondola up to a lookout over the city. today was a bit more exotic.... we went to the wildlife park and went on the lion encounter that many of you may have heard us talking about for a while now. for an idea of what this is check out this link: http://www.oranawildlifepark.co.nz/lions.htm . yeah, we were inside the truck. lions were on top. and hanging off the side. it was awesome! we have pictures and video snippets that will make it up here at some point. anna's a brave one. i got a bit nervous..... mostly about getting peed on but all was well.

tomorrow we're headed to queenstown in search of zorbing adventures. queenstown is one of the centers for adventure sports in the world so should we feel the need to jump off a bridge, white water raft without a raft or ice climb, we'll be in the right place.

quote of the day: "if one of these guys gets out of here, i don't want to be around. this mesh keeps me alive." the lion trainer leading our tour. (makes one feel very secure.)

we're happy. we're sun kissed. and we still like each other. all is well.

Friday, January 9, 2009

off we go...


anna and i are going on a trip. more than a trip really.... we're going on a three month adventure that will take us through new zealand, australia, bali, thailand, cambodia, vietnam, and japan. we've been planning this for a year... since last new year's eve to be exact. that means we've had a lot of time to think about every aspect of the trip. we're feeling pretty prepared. despite our long preparation the last week has been busy with packing, cleaning, last minute errands, last days of work etc etc. and now we're ready and excited to go. we're talking unbridled joy that has verged on mania on more than one occasion. when we're together, strangers tend to comment. so yeah, we're excited.
we've got big plans for this trip... some of which include, lions, elephants, giant alligators, river dolphins, zorbing, snorkeling, sea kayaking, and getting really good tans. we hope to be able to post fairly frequently but we'll see how it goes. our preemptive apologies if we aren't able to post as often as we'd like. we may have crappy internet service or we may just be having too much fun. :)